Nassau

Bahama Handprints fabrics emphasize local artists' sophisticated tropical prints in an array of colors. Also look for leather handbags, a wide range of women's clothing, housewares, and bolts of fabric. Ask for a free tour of the factory in back.

This is a top choice for everything from ball gowns and cocktail dresses to resort wear and bathing suits with all the shoes and accessories for every look.

This cute boutique offers high-end straw bags and purses, as well as costume jewelry.

Gregarious owner Peter Mousis greets his guests with a bellowing "Opa!" and he and his family serve tasty fare at moderate prices seven days a week. This Greek restaurant provides a break from the Nassau culinary routine. Sit on the second floor among Grecian statuary, or on the balcony overlooking the action below. Enjoy souvlaki, moussaka, or a hearty Greek gyro in a relaxed and friendly establishment. Dinner is an option only if you eat very early; it closes by 6 pm (4 on Sunday).

Three generations of Bahamian women treat patrons as if they were welcoming them into their own home. And the Bahamian food whipped up in the kitchen is as close to homemade as you can get in a restaurant. This simple locale is bustling with local professionals during the week and has also become a popular "off the beaten path" spot for cruise-ship passengers. Grandmother Mena swears their conch fritters are the "conchiest" you'll find.

Low-slung settees, stucco arches, and reproductions of the eponymous artist's works set a casually refined tone at this restaurant owned by a husband-and-wife team—he's Bahamian, she's Northern Italian. Sit in the ground-floor garden under large white umbrellas or dine inside the century-old house for lunch or dinner. Start with the warm Parmesan terrine, then dive into freshly made pasta with crabmeat, garlic, hot pepper, cherry tomatoes, and shrimp in a spicy red-curry sauce, or such delights as pizza frutti di mare (topped with fresh local seafood). Be sure to save room for dessert and the delicious handmade cookies that come with coffee.

In a converted Bahamian home, this is one of the most popular Chinese restaurants in town. The Chinese-Continental menu includes entrées such as conch with black-bean sauce, hung shew (walnut chicken), and steak kew (cubed prime fillet served with baby corn, snow peas, water chestnuts, and vegetables). The New York strip steak is nirvana. A short taxi ride from Paradise Island or downtown Nassau, this is the perfect spot if you're seeking something a little different from the typical area restaurants. Dress is casual elegance.

A meal at this hillside mansion's formal restaurant begins in the elegant parlor, where, over live piano music, drinks are served and orders are taken. It's a rarefied world, where waiters wear tuxedos, and Cuban cigars and cognac are served after dinner. Graycliff's signature dishes include Kobe beef, Kurobuta pork, and Nassau grouper. The wine cellar contains more than 200,000 bottles that have been hand-picked by owner Enrico Garzaroli, some running into the tens of thousands of dollars. There are plenty of less expensive bottles, but you'll find the markup on better vintages to be much less than what you'd find in a big-city restaurant almost anywhere in the world. You can even buy the world's oldest bottle of wine, a German vintage 1727, for $200,000. Mere mortals can settle for the weekday wine luncheons. For an extra-special dining experience, you can book the wine cellar's private dining room.

The salad bar at this casual restaurant offers everything from simple salad fixings to scrumptious seafood salads and soups. And that is just the start. Each table setting includes a coaster that's red on one side and green on the other. Just like a stoplight, green means go and red means stop. Waiters serve a never-ending selection of delicious skewered meats and fresh fish until you turn your coaster to red and declare uncle. Another option is the wood-fired pizza served on the terrace out back. The $20 pizza and a bucket of three beers during Friday happy hour is a great deal. When you're done, stop by the smoking lounge to see the cigar rollers in action, or stroll along the garden terraces and fountains out back.

Green Roofs, the sprawling former residence of the late Sir Roland Symonette (the country's first premier), houses this harborside restaurant. The mansion's mahogany woodwork, gardens, and terraces create a romantic setting for dining on Tuscan fare that features local seafood, including the fisherman's soup, grouper, and homemade pastas—including a delicious frutti di mare over linguine. The lamb, osso bucco, and veal are also popular options. The sweeping view of Paradise Island and the towers of Atlantis is particularly lovely at sunset. Reservations are essential for waterside tables.

Angus beef and fresh native seafood—flame-grilled and seasoned with home-mixed spices—are the specialties at this romantic restaurant in an old Bahamian mansion on Lake Waterloo. The dining room opens to a walled courtyard niched with Roman-style statues and gardens that lead to a waterside balustrade. Besides seafood and steak (carnivores should try the filet mignon smothered in mushrooms), menu selections include chicken, lamb, pasta, ribs, and several Bahamian-inspired dishes such as conch fritters and cracked coconut conch. A favorite dessert is Fort Montagu Mud Pie. They offer a free ride both to and from Paradise Island and Cable Beach; just call to make a reservation.

Jamaican transplant Keron Williams takes his role of cooking and serving up the most authentic Jamaican food in Nassau very seriously. His small, simple restaurant draws an international crowd of cruise-ship workers and immigrants from the Caribbean diaspora. Awaken your taste buds with ackee and codfish, oxtail and beans, or escoviche fish with a side of rice and beans infused with coconut milk, then take the edge off the spiciness with a tall glass of freshly made carrot, mango, or soursop juice. Peak lunchtime gets very busy, so be prepared to wait for a table; the restaurant is only open until 6 pm.

One of Nassau's hot spots, this simple sushi restaurant has an extensive menu including traditional rolls, sushi, and sashimi as well as more innovative options that incorporate local delicacies like conch. The Volcano Roll topped with their special conch sauce is a favorite. There are enough non-seafood options on the menu to satisfy anyone in your group. Friday and Saturday nights are really busy (and there are no reservations), so be prepared to wait for a table and to be served.

If you arrive in Nassau aboard a cruise ship, you won't miss the sign for this second-floor, hot-spot bar and grill emblazoned atop its thatched roof. You may have a hard time picking your drink from the extensive menu of frozen concoctions. The Sneaky Tiki with seven types of rum is a favorite, as is the Sharkeez Volcano (which is set ablaze), and the Nassau Iced Tea, a twist on the "Long Island" traditional. Sit indoors or enjoy the fresh air and a fantastic harbor view on the long wraparound balcony and enjoy some good Bahamian food like fresh conch salad or lobster poppers followed by the tender cracked conch or a Caribbean jerk burger. Finish up with guava duff for dessert. No matter what your sport, this is also a good spot to catch your team in action on one of 10 big screen TVs.

Two locations—Green Parrot Harbourfront and Green Parrot Hurricane Hole—mean you get incomparable views of Nassau Harbour and a fresh breeze, whichever way the wind is blowing. The large Works Burger is a favorite at these casual, all-outdoor restaurants and bars. The menu includes burgers, wraps, quesadillas, and other simple but tasty dishes. The conch po'boy is a new favorite. The weekday happy hour from 5 to 9 and a DJ on Friday nights draw a lively local crowd.

Just east of the bridges from Paradise Island and a quick cab ride from the center of town is this favorite local haunt. There's usually a wait for a table, and it's worth waiting a little longer for one overlooking the marina and Nassau Harbour. The restaurant's popularity has resulted in a second Poop Deck on Cable Beach's west end, but, for residents, this is still the place. Expect spicy dishes with names such as Mama Mary's Fish; there's also an extensive wine list. Start with Paula's Conch Fritters and then select a fresh, whole-hog snapper or lobster tail for the chef to prepare exactly how you want it. The fish is usually served head to tail, so if you're squeamish, ask your waiter to have the head cut off before it comes out on your plate. Save room for guava duff and a calypso coffee spiked with secret ingredients.

Dutch owner Freddy Van Breugel is enough of a character that a chance meeting with him is almost enough to make a visit to this hip spot just off Bay Street worth the effort. The Coconut Curry Conch Chowder—a delicious blend of the Bahamian staple and a Thai coconut chicken soup—is another reason. This is a popular spot for locals to grab a working lunch or catch up during Friday happy hour at the bar that runs the length of the converted Bahamian home.

Known to Nassau residents as "The Fish Fry," Arawak Cay is one of the best places to knock back a Kalik beer, chat with locals, watch or join in a fast-paced game of dominoes, or sample traditional Bahamian fare. You can get small dishes such as conch fritters or full meals at one of the pastel-color waterside shacks. Order a fried snapper served up with a sweet homemade roll, or fresh conch salad (a spicy mixture of chopped conch—just watching the expert chopping is a show as good as any in town—mixed with diced onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, and hot peppers in a lime marinade). The two-story Twin Brothers and Goldie's Enterprises are two of the most popular places. Try their fried "cracked conch" and Goldie's famous Sky Juice (a sweet but potent gin, coconut-water, and sweet-milk concoction sprinkled with nutmeg). Local fairs and craft shows are often held in the adjacent field.

This spa, situated in an old wooden two-story Bahamian home, is popular with locals and offers a full range of spa and salon services seven days a week. Reservations are suggested, but walk-ins are welcome. Specialties include body sugaring and threading for hair removal, but massages are also good here. Book a Couples Spa Day for a complete pampering treat: aromatherapy body polish, aromatherapy massage, spa manicure and pedicure, and gourmet lunch with a glass of wine each.

At the Bahamas Rum Cake Factory, delicious Bahamian rum-soaked cakes are made and packaged in tins right on the premises (peek into the bakery) and make a great souvenir. Just make sure you take one home for yourself!

A delightful 18th-century landmark—a pink two-story house named aptly for its overhanging balcony—this is the oldest wooden residential structure in Nassau and its furnishings and design recapture the elegance of a bygone era. A mahogany staircase, believed to have been salvaged from a ship during the 19th century, is an interior highlight. A guided tour through this fascinating building is an hour well spent.

Pop into this open-air club overlooking Nassau Harbour and you may find the DJ playing the latest Top 40 dance tune. Wait a few moments and Europe's sexiest house beats will change the vibe entirely. It's popular with hip young locals and cruise passengers and staff. The club is open on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday nights from 9 pm to 5 am and has a $20 cover.

Here you can find leather goods for men and women, including bags, shoes, and belts. Pick up one of the unique soft leather passport covers that come in an array of colors emblazoned with your country's coat of arms.

It's worth the short walk off the main thoroughfare to see the stained-glass windows of this cathedral, which was built in 1837, when Nassau officially became a city. The white pillars of the church's spacious, airy interior support ceilings beamed with dark wood handcrafted by ship builders. The Crucifixion depicted in the east window's center panel is flanked by depictions of the Empty Tomb and the Ascension. Be sure to spend a few minutes in the small, flower-filled Garden of Remembrance, where stone plaques adorn the walls. Sunday Mass is held at 7:30, 9, 11:15 am, and 6 pm. Drop by the cathedral Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve to see the glorious church at night, and hear the music and choir. Call ahead to find out the time of the service.

Coin of the Realm has Bahamian coins, stamps, native conch pearls, tanzanite, and semiprecious stone jewelry.

Colombian Emeralds International is the local branch of this well-known jeweler; its stores carry a variety of fine jewelry in addition to its signature gem. In addition to a location in downtown Nassau, there are also branches in Marina Village and at the Atlantis Paradise Island Royal Towers and Beach Towers.

This gallery, housed in a traditional Bahamian style building, features a large exhibition gallery showcasing local artists. On Saturday mornings a bustling farmers' market takes place here.

Shaped like the bow of a ship and perched near the top of the Queen's Staircase, Fort Fincastle—named for Royal Governor Lord Dunmore (Viscount Fincastle)—was completed in 1793 to be a lookout post for marauders trying to sneak into the harbor. It served as a lighthouse in the early 19th century. A 15- to 20-minute tour costs just $1 per person and includes the nearby Queen's Staircase. The fort's 126-foot-tall water tower, which is more than 200 feet above sea level (and the island's highest point), is closed at this writing.

The oldest of the island's three forts, Montagu was built of local limestone in 1741 to repel Spanish invaders. The only action it saw was when it was occupied for two weeks by rebel American troops—among them a lieutenant named John Paul Jones—seeking arms and ammunition during the Revolutionary War. The small fortification is quite simple, but displays a lovely elevated view of Nassau Harbour. The second level has a number of weathered cannons. A recently renovated and restored public beach looks out upon Montagu Bay, where many international yacht regattas and Bahamian sloop races are held annually.

The official residence of the Bahamas governor-general, the personal representative of the Queen since 1801, this imposing pink-and-white building on Duke Street is an excellent example of the mingling of Bahamian-British and American colonial architecture. Its graceful columns and broad circular drive recall the styles of Virginia or the Carolinas. But its pink color, distinctive white quoins (cross-laid cornerstones), and louvered wooden shutters (to keep out the tropical sun) are typically Bahamian. Here you can catch the crisply disciplined but beautifully flamboyant changing of the guard ceremony, which takes place every second Saturday of the month at 11 am. The stars of the pomp and pageantry are members of the Royal Bahamas Police Force Band, who are decked out in white tunics; red-striped black trousers; and spiked, white pith helmets with red bands. The drummers sport leopard skins. There is a tea party open to the public from 3 to 4 pm on the last Friday of the month from January to June as part of the People-to-People program. Dress is casual but elegant—no shorts, jeans, or tennis shoes. Musicians, poets, and storytellers provide entertainment. Be sure to note the larger-than-life statue of Christopher Columbus on the grounds overlooking Nassau.

Go behind the scenes at this boutique chocolate factory, and you can make your own sweet souvenirs. The tour lasts about an hour, and after watching master chocolatiers in action and learning the history of chocolate production around the world, guests enter the chocolate classroom where they get to design their own creations, including a signature Graycliff chocolate bar. There is also a kids' classroom for younger chocolate lovers.

Graycliff carries one of Nassau's finest selections of hand-rolled cigars, featuring leaves from throughout Central and South America. Graycliff's operation is so popular that it has been expanded by the hotel to include an entire cigar factory, which is open to the public for tours and purchases. A dozen Cuban men and women roll the cigars; they live on the premises and work here through a special arrangement with the Cuban government. True cigar buffs will seek out Graycliff's owner, Enrico Garzaroli. In addition to the shop in the hotel, there's another Graycliff boutique at Lynden Pindling International Airport.

Named for John Gregory (royal governor 1849–54), this arch, at the intersection of Market and Duke streets, separates downtown from the "over-the-hill" neighborhood of Grant's Town, where much of Nassau's population lives. Grant's Town was laid out in the 1820s by Governor Lewis Grant as a settlement for freed slaves. Visitors once enjoyed late-night mingling with the locals in the small, dimly lighted bars; nowadays you should exhibit the same caution you would if you were visiting the commercial areas of a large city. Nevertheless, it's a vibrant section of town where you can rub shoulders with Bahamians at a funky take-out food stand or down-home restaurant.

This collection of shops under a huge, spreading bougainvillea, sells linens, jewelry, souvenirs, and offbeat items. There's usually a small band playing all sort of music along this funky shopping row.

Established in 1929 and magnificently decorated in its Bay Street incarnation behind a Georgian-style facade, John Bull fills its complex with wares from Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Mikimoto, Nina Ricci, and Yves Saint Laurent. The company has 12 locations throughout Nassau and Paradise Island.

The former Buena Vista Estate which featured in the James Bond film Casino Royale has been painstakingly transformed and taken back to its glory days, emerging as the new home of the John Watling's Distillery. Parts of the home date back to 1789 and the actual production of the line of John Watling's artisanal rums, gins, vodkas, and liquors are handmade, hand bottled, and hand labeled just as they would have been in that era. Take a self-guided tour through the grounds and working estate to learn the fascinating history of the home and then walk out back to watch the rum production line from an overhead mezzanine. Sit in the Red Turtle Tavern with an internationally acclaimed Rum Dum or just a great mojito and pick up a unique Bahamian souvenir in the on-site retail store.

Right in downtown Nassau, this beach is spring-break central from late February through April. The man-made beach isn't the prettiest on the island, but it's conveniently located if you only have a few quick hours to catch a tan. Music is provided by bands, DJs, and guys with boom boxes; a growing number of bars keep the drinks flowing. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; swimming.

This shop sells fine embroidered Irish linens and lace and has a delightful Christmas corner.

Be sure to try the cinnamon twists or the gingerbread sticks at this great local bakery not far from downtown or Paradise Island.

Mortimer Candies whips up batches of uniquely Bahamian sweet treats daily. Pop in for a sno-cone on a hot day, or buy some bags of bennie cake, coconut-cream candy, or their signature Paradise Sweets in a swirl of the Bahamian flag colors.

Here you can find candles, soaps, salt scrubs, and lotions in island- and ocean-inspired scents and colors, all locally made. A second location is found at Festival Place.

The octagonal building near Parliament Square was the Nassau Gaol (the old British spelling for jail), circa 1797. You're welcome to pop in and browse. The small prison cells are now lined with books. The museum has an interesting collection of historic prints and old colonial documents. Computers with Internet access are available for rent ($1 for 15 minutes, $4 for an hour).

Opened in 2003, the museum houses the works of esteemed Bahamian artists such as Max Taylor, Amos Ferguson, Brent Malone, John Cox, and Antonius Roberts. The glorious Italianate-colonial mansion, built in 1860 and restored in the 1990s, has double-tiered verandas with elegant columns. It was the residence of Sir William Doyle, the first chief justice of the Bahamas. Don't miss the museum's gift shop, where you'll find books about the Bahamas as well as Bahamian quilts, prints, ceramics, jewelry, and crafts.

Nassau is the seat of the national government. The Bahamian Parliament comprises two houses—a 16-member Senate (Upper House) and a 38-member House of Assembly (Lower House)—and a ministerial cabinet headed by a prime minister. If the House is in session, sit in to watch lawmakers debate. Parliament Square's pink, colonnaded government buildings were constructed in the late 1700s and early 1800s by Loyalists who came to the Bahamas from North Carolina. The square is dominated by a statue of a slim young Queen Victoria that was erected on her birthday, May 24, in 1905. In the immediate area are a handful of magistrates' courts. Behind the House of Assembly is the Supreme Court. Its four-times-a-year opening ceremonies (held the first weeks of January, April, July, and October) recall the wigs and mace-bearing pageantry of the Houses of Parliament in London. The Royal Bahamas Police Force Band is usually on hand for the event.

This shop carries the best-selling French fragrance Boucheron and the Clarins line of skin-care products, as well as scents by Givenchy, Fendi, and other well-known designers.

Take a self-guided journey through Nassau's pirate days in this interactive museum devoted to such notorious members of the city's past as Blackbeard, Mary Read, and Anne Bonney. Board a pirate ship, see dioramas of intrigue on the high seas, hear historical narration, and experience sound effects re-creating some of the gruesome highlights. It's a fun and educational (if slightly scary) family outing. Be sure to check out the offbeat souvenirs in the Pirate Shop.

The building, where slave auctions were held in the 1700s, is named for a rebel slave who lived on the Out Island of Exuma in 1830. The structure and historic artifacts inside were destroyed by fire in December 2011, but have been painstakingly re-created and new exhibits have been acquired and produced. Exhibits focus on the issues of slavery and emancipation and highlight the works of local artists. A knowledgeable, enthusiastic young staff is on hand to answer questions.

This open space at the western end of Bay Street overlooks the busy Nassau Harbour and is the spot to catch local festivals and events, live music, and Bahamian craft shows. With 24-hour security, public restrooms, an interactive water feature that delights kids of all ages, and a host of small restaurants and bars nearby, this square, which pays tribute to a slave who fought for his freedom, is the start of a strategic redevelopment of downtown Nassau.

Prince George Plaza, which leads from Bay Street to Woodes Rogers Walk near the cruise-ship docks, just east of the International Bazaar, has about two-dozen shops with varied wares.

The wharf that leads into Rawson Square is the first view that cruise passengers encounter after they tumble off their ships. Up to a dozen gigantic cruise ships call on Nassau at any one time, and passengers spill out onto downtown, giving Nassau an instant, and constantly replenished, surge of life. Even if you're not visiting via cruise ship, it's worth heading to Festival Place, an outdoor Bahamian village–style shopping emporium. Here you'll find booths for 45 Bahamian artisans; live music; Internet kiosks; vendors selling diving, fishing, and day trips; scooter rentals; and an information desk offering maps, directions, and suggestions for sightseeing. You can also arrange walking tours of historic Nassau here.

A popular early-morning exercise regime for locals, the "66 Steps" (as Bahamians call them) are thought to have been carved out of a solid limestone cliff by slaves in the 1790s. The staircase was later named to honor Queen Victoria's reign. Pick up some souvenirs at the ad hoc straw market along the narrow road that leads to the site.

This shady square connects Bay Street to Prince George Wharf. As you enter off Bay Street, note the statue of Sir Milo Butler, the first postindependence (and first native Bahamian) governor general. Horse-drawn surreys wait for passengers along Prince George Wharf (expect to pay about $30 for a half-hour ride through Nassau's streets). Between Rawson Square and Festival Place, check out (or perhaps stop inside) the open-air hair-braiding pavilion, where women work their magic at prices ranging from $2 for a single strand to $100 for an elaborate do. An often-overlooked pleasure near the pavilion is Randolph W. Johnston's lovely bronze statue, Tribute to Bahamian Women. The prime minister meets with his cabinet every Tuesday in the building that lines the eastern side of the square.

Years after the original burned to the ground, vendors finally have a new permanent structure from which to sell their wares. Situated on the original site on Bay Street is a towering colonial-style marketplace housing hundreds of straw vendors selling straw bags, T-shirts, and other souvenirs. The Straw Market is one place in the Bahamas where bartering is accepted, so it's best to wander around and price similar items at different stalls before sealing a deal.

This shop has beauty experts on hand to demonstrate the latest cosmetics offerings, including M.A.C., Clinique, Bobbi Brown, and La Mer.

This small shop situated in a traditional wooden structure is a great place to buy locally made souvenirs and gifts including soaps and oils, hand-painted glassware, jewelry, straw bags, and textiles. The artists and artisans are often on-site.

This is a landmark perfumery that has the broadest selection of imported perfumes and fragrances in the Bahamas. Experienced makeup artists are on hand to help pick out the perfect foundation or blush from a wide array of lines including Lancôme, Clinique, and Chanel.

Nearly 200 species of exotic palm trees grace the 11 verdant acres appropriately known as The Retreat, which serves as the headquarters of the Bahamas National Trust. Stroll in blessed silence through the lush grounds, and be on the lookout for native birds. It's a perfect break on a steamy Nassau day. The Retreat hosts the Jollification—the unofficial start to the Christmas season—the third weekend in November. Carols, festive food and drinks, a kids' holiday craft center, and local artisans selling native and Christmas crafts make this a must-do event.

This day spa offers a variety of spa treatments—such as hydrotherapy and salt glows—as well as top-quality facials, massages, manicures, and pedicures. Get to the Lynden Pindling International Airport early for a final massage or manicure at their nail and massage bar in the departure lounge.